Vatican Cameos

I had a wish list of the things I had to see in Vatican.

a) Sistine Chapel, specifically The creation of Adam by Michelangelo.

b) The Swiss guards in their colourful pantaloons designed by Michelangelo.

By the way, he didn’t!

c) Bramante Staircase or the double helix spiral staircase.

d) Michelangelo’s Pieta.

Everything else I saw would be a bonus!

So like travellers on a budget who counted euros and time, three hours were set aside for the museum. 

That day we were in Vatican for nine!

“In the universe, there are things that are known, and there are things that are unknown, and in between, there are doors.”     –  William Blake

I walk the line!

 The museum entrance was a surprise, pretty modest, not what I expected. On the other hand the queues and the tour groups in their distinctive neon caps and jackets were ginormous.

Ship Ahoy!

It wasn’t the double helix spiral staircase I was hankering for. Still a lovely one that went round and round as we entered the museum.

Note the boat and oars, the exhibits were already in place!

Arnaldo Pomodoro’ Sphere within sphere. Mama Sphere rotates with Baby Sphere and all!

The Sphere sculpture was set in the grounds of the Pinecone Courtyard. It was named after a massive pinecone sculpture set on a niche wall overlooking it. Dan Brown too mentioned in his book, Angels and Demons. I read it twice; it was my official guide to everything Vatican.

The Hall of Sculptures was next. We almost gave it a miss in a race to see the Sistine Chapel till a smiling guard (the only one of his kind) helpfully pointed that we’d miss something cool.

And now when I remember the scores of marble statues, big and small and see the million photos I took, I agree.

Jude Law, a few pounds heavier perhaps?

River Nile- A male God?

 “Pulvis et umbra sumus.” (We are but dust and shadow.) – Horace 

Atlas Shrugged!

“Double, double toil and trouble; fire burn and caldron bubble.”

Yup! Son of Zeus, demigod Hercules, that’s me.

In a grip of excitement, we walked faster, eyes darting to take in everything. I saw my first real Egyptian sarcophagus, canopic jars and pages from the Book of the Dead.

The rows of paintings on the walls were a blur until I happened to glance at the names; I was looking at a Caravaggio, Raphael, Picasso, Dali, DaVinci .

And did I mention the roofs?

The carrot was the Cappella Sistine or Sistine Chapel. Signs directing to it kept most of us moving enthusiastically.  

It was at the Hall of Maps where I heard the guard sitting by the door shout the magic mantra, “Avanti! AvanTI! AVANTI!” (Forward!)

I’m sure he must have lost his voice by the end of the day. He sounded shriller every time a visitor would come striding in through the doors and come to a crashing halt, eyes upwards, slack jawed in astonishment!

Could this be Bifröst?

Hall of Maps!

Such was the magnificence of the room.

Other highlights included the Hall of Tapestries, cool and oyster grey, subtle elegance after all that bling. The bright Matisse exhibition of prints reminded me surprisingly of Indian textile prints.

An interactive art installation was also one of the unique ones. It came with screens that would come alive when you touched any avatar on it. It spoke nothing except mime for a while and then become still.

Room with a view! 

So finally after stopping by at every room, gawking at the walls, roof, floor, objects, we made our way into Sistine. Right away I heard stern voices in repeat mode, “Silenzio! No photos!”

Ok! Ever had gargantuan expectations and you pray not to be disappointed? I had that feeling before entering the door leading into the chapel.

The Chapel turned out to be much smaller than I expected and definitely more densely packed. I pitied the claustrophobic. While our eyes frantically looked at the masterpieces on the walls and the roof, Vatican officials in dark suits, Matrix kind swarmed among us. Agent Smiths in their demeanour, they shouted , “Silenzio! No photo!” They even came menacingly to check the last photos on the cameras and phones of the folks they suspected.

Uncomfortable, right?

Anyway, we were there and were determined to experience the Sistine magic. We sat on the bench running along the walls to marvel the genius of the painter who made the figures almost three dimensional. I finally spotted ‘Creation of Adam’. It was disappointingly a small panel among many on the roof.

I switched to the other side so that I could admire from another angle- the gorgeous murals and the painted scalloped fabric wallpaper that looked so lifelike. Later I saw the same scalloped wall paper in ‘The young Pope’ starring Jude Law set in the Vatican. Talk about details! That series is an absolute favourite of mine.

I finally made it to the Double Helix Bramante Staircase. There was not a chance I would have missed it. Apparently you exit the museum via this very staircase.

Swirling-whirling down we go!

Look up and see the skylight glow!

Swirling- whirling down we go,

Look up, watch the skylight glow!

 

The Swiss Guards came marching by.

Yay!

Last stop was the St Peter’s Basilica.

Behind a glass wall was Pieta, inspiring reverence and awe all around.

To think Michelangelo was only 24 when he sculpted it.

And then I looked up and down,

inside …

…and out!

“Hope is the pillar that holds up the world. Hope is the dream of a waking man.” – Pliny the Elder.

St Peter’s Basilica was an overwhelming sensory experience, never to be forgotten.

That was Vatican for me, where reality transcended my imagination!

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